Fashion Eclipse-Ing All Others
Power dressing for women is given new expression in the Eclipse Fall/Winter 2008 collection, writes CHEONG PHIN.
FOR decades Yves Saint Laurent revolutionised the way women of the 20th century dressed with his androgynous pantsuits, safari jackets, see-through blouses and the iconic Le Smoking - the first tuxedo for women.
His long-time confidante and business partner, Pierre Berge, succinctly said on France Info radio that “Gabrielle Chanel gave women freedom but Yves Saint Laurent gave them power.” A power to choose what she wants to wear and wear it confidently.
The era of the female power suit from the eighties may be long gone, but the spirit of power dressing lives on and comes in many guises in women’s fashion today. Whether it’s sharp men’s tailoring, bold colours or a soft, feminine and seductive silhouette, today’s woman continues to rely on clothes to reflect confidence, authority and elegance.
One collection that claims to encapsulate everything about woman power this season is the Eclipse Fall/Winter 2008 wear designed by Sonny San, the man known for his ultra-feminine styles.
“Right now, what’s powerful and seductive is a sexy, yet defined silhouette. Women want to be sexy, and when it’s tastefully done, sexy can be powerful,” said San.
The collection has the Saint Laurent stamp written all over it with the bold and powerful simplicity of stark, modern and minimalist silhouettes.
Whether strapless, halter or asymmetric, these seemingly simple pieces are bold, intense and fetchingly sexy and feminine.
Match them with a pair of seductive heels and a matching clutch bag, and they become the perfect answer for the urban woman party reveller - just the thing for the year-end celebrations coming our way.
In a fashion season where black and grey rule again, San used the extraordinary colour sense of Saint Laurent to good effect by injecting electric blue, fuchsia and saffron into his collection.
A combination of innovative cuts, ruching and the elegant draping of liquid jersey produce some gorgeous pieces such as the flattering one-shouldered ruched dress in vibrant fuchsia, and a strapless dress draping in electric blue, which reminded me of the fabulous Jean Desses vintage gown worn by Renee Zellweger at the 2001 Oscar night.
Black features often in Eclipse and its Fall 2008 edition features strong silhouettes with opulence and edgy detailing.
Outstanding pieces include a very sexy strapless dress that comes fully covered with black sequins, and an embellished halter top to match the directional cantazaro pants in jet.
The lightweight and easy-to-maintain liquid jersey is extensively used in the collection, being San’s favourite fabric since he created his Eclipse fashion label.
“It’s a fabric with which I’m absolutely comfortable working, embodying as it does sheer feminine appeal.
“It allows for plenty of movement and energy in my designs, and is easy to pack in a travel case,” said San, who knows just where to place a ruche and cut a dress with this material to hug the torso in the most flattering manner.
Texture is key in the Fall 2008 runway looks, which feature lots of feathers, fringing and exotic leather.
San did fringing out of laser-cut satin. Looking almost like long-haired wool wraps, the cascading seaweed and cobweb cut-outs reflect the season’s new bohemian look.
The raw detailing of this unique fringing appears on tube dresses, skirts and halter dresses, evoking unrestrained power dressing with an edge that is in keeping with the season’s gothic mood as well.
San seems to have the knack of intuiting what his legion of fans want, and having his finger on the pulse of current fashion with his easy-to-wear fashionable aesthetics.
“The days of rigidly following trends are gone. It’s not about shorter or longer hemlines anymore, but understanding and catering to our customer needs,” said San who counts Southeast-Asia and the Middle East, besides Malaysia, as his markets.
His collection will be available in boutiques at the end of the month, together with his latest ready-to-wear line and shoes, handbags and other accessories.
New Straits Times